First hunt with the W1000. 5 boars, 6 coyotes.

I'll post this as a new thread in the reloading section but it's not only the federal gold dots Im disappointed in. The federal brass has been pretty bad also this is my first loading of this brass multiple split necks and this. My original SSA brass is for the most part still in service. I recommend getting the SSA brass if you can.

 
once fired brass from LWRC? A Post in 6.8 looks like SSA brass is alot different now too since the buyout, thinner.
 
And, I've got at least 500 pcs. of that brass on hand. Oh well...
 
This was the once fired military brass. I used 75 rounds of it so for only loaded it once so second time being fired 30.4gr of aa2200 coal 2.285 out of 75 pieces I found 10 split necks and two of these now. Also I loaded about 50 pieces of SSA brass fired at least 5 times no split necks none of this.

 
So it is not the lwrc brass? I know my loaded 90's and 115 fusion are in nice shiny brass even after shooting.
 
FrankT said:
So it is not the lwrc brass? I know my loaded 90's and 115 fusion are in nice shiny brass even after shooting.
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Frank Im shooting suppressed so even the brass that has not been chambered yet gets very dirty. These were also in my muddy floorboard for two weeks. These are stamped FC 6.8mm SPC.
 
I wonder if annealing them would help?
 
Do not know I mostly have SSA brass and a few hundred Remington brass with the larger primers. I've had more split necks out of the first 75 of these than the rest of my brass in three years!
 
A few things it could be:

First is brittle brass. It happens, I use an annealer for older Lake City 5.56 brass because when I try to make 300 BLK or 7.62x40WT it splits way too many necks. The next thought would be improperly made brass.

Next, clean your chamber (and bore), sticking brass in a dirty chamber and running a suppressor with a wide-open gas block can cause an over-gassed situation. With the carrier timing not unlocking properly can cause some pressure, but usually you would see that on the brass (besides the necks and breaking), how do the bottoms look? Flattening of primers, extractor marks on the rim, ejector swipes? Any bulging near the base of the brass?

Are you full length sizing the brass or just pushing the shoulder back? It would probably help to bump the shoulder about .004" so that they cycle but don't work the brass too much. I have to say though that I have 4 6.8's and its a bitch to keep the brass separate for each barrel lol.

So first thing, clean the gun, clean the brass well, resize less, check pressures, and then through the Federal brass in the trash can and get SSA lol.
 
I can bring an annealer to the next meet & greet if you want to treat the necks
 
What does the base of the shell look like ? Are you getting ejector smear ? I had to slow my ar10 7.62 nato gas system way down when shooting suppressed . I ended up with a 11oz buffer and adjustable gas block . These direct impingement gas systems dont like to be suppressed . one thing i hate about shooting a AR type suppressed is they run so darn dirty!!!
 
heiliggeiste said:
What does the base of the shell look like ? Are you getting ejector smear ? I had to slow my ar10 7.62 nato gas system way down when shooting suppressed . I ended up with a 11oz buffer and adjustable gas block . These direct impingement gas systems dont like to be suppressed . one thing i hate about shooting a AR type suppressed is they run so darn dirty!!!
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I sold that brass and it has never happened again.
 
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