Varmint Problem

[DRC]

Nov. 2013 I shot a little wounded buck that had infection in the inner thigh of his left leg and drug him through two fields through the snow before I dropped him in a field to go up to the land owners house to tell her of the infected deer. After about 10 min. Of discussion, we both decided to get rid of the deer rather than chance eating the meat so I went back to get him to drag him farther back into the woods and when I got back to the spot I had left him he was gone. As a looked the area over I immediately saw coyote tracks and a new blood trail from my deer. I followed the trail and found my deer had been drug down a hill into a snow covered creek bottom. The feast had already begun as the tail end of my buck had been eaten out. 15 minutes tops from the time I left the deer until I returned. I will post the before and after pics here soon.
Land owner has asked that I help with the bobcat/coyote problem on her property as the coyotes have killed a couple of her goats and the bobcats have possibly killed some of her cats.
I have this year started predator hunting.
Totals so far:
2 hunts:
1 bobcat

 

[FrankT]

yeah really tough to get on top of them, use an electronic caller and kill'em!

 

[DRC]

yeah really tough to get on top of them, use an electronic caller and kill'em!

My electronic caller called the bobcat in. I also now have a mojo critter and am anxious to try it. Wish me luck!!

 

[Curly Shuffle]

If they get to be to much for you to handle give me a shout and I can help!!! BANG BANG!!!

 

[Brian Shaffer]

I have a caller, but am impressed with folks who use them. I have only used mine a couple of times. I don't like it when the critters run in at 3/4 speed, LOL. The callers definitely work, but I appreciate the slower way of life of just shooting the ones I happen to see. ;)

If you figure out a way to make them stop after they come in, please let me know!

 

[lonepunman]

My electronic caller called the bobcat in. I also now have a mojo critter and am anxious to try it. Wish me luck!!

Do you have the original version with the plastic spike or the metal screw spike? Or the Super Critter?

I have all three and there are a couple of tips that might be helpful...

 

[DRC]

Do you have the original version with the plastic spike or the metal screw spike? Or the Super Critter?
I have the metal screw spike version. And please do elaborate. I have only watched videos on how to use it with the electronic calls.

I have all three and there are a couple of tips that might be helpful...

 

[DRC]

The on

I have a caller, but am impressed with folks who use them. I have only used mine a couple of times. I don't like it when the critters run in at 3/4 speed, LOL. The callers definitely work, but I appreciate the slower way of life of just shooting the ones I happen to see. ;)

If you figure out a way to make them stop after they come in, please let me know![/quote
The bobcat that I called in with it sat in the wood line and listened to it. I shut it off for about 5 seconds before I shot him. He didn't seem in a hurry to leave the wood line to approach it.

 

[DRC]

The on

But that is my only experience with it so far.

 

[lonepunman]

The metal spike version is better than the original, which used to snap off when pushing it into firm ground.

I like the Critter a lot, but there are couple things you should know.

There is a small bolt that tightens the decoy cable into the spinning base. It's tiny, black and can fall out. I recommend getting one or two replacements from the hardware store so you have backups in case it happens.

The thread for the spike also can accommodate a hook bolt. This allows you to hang the decoy upside down from a tree branch or fence line. I like using a fence wire because it the movement reverberates down the line and simulates an animal caught in the wire.

When you spike the Critter, drive it straight down and deep; the motion over time can cause it to wiggle loose if not secure.

Make sure the area around the decoy is clear; the swinging fur attachment will quickly latch onto any weeds / cactus / twigs in its radius.

Resist the temptation to spray any scent directly on it; I've found some placing on the ground near it help cover the scent that the fur absorbs. I keep the fur cover and cable in a plastic bag between hunts to minimize scent absorption, and spray some deodorizer on it before use.

I recommend removing the cable when traveling between stands; if that screw comes loose and the cable falls out, you'll have a helluva time finding it. Consider keeping a thick rubber band or zip tie on the decoy to secure it.

It's a good decoy - reliable, quiet and and the batteries last a long time.

 

[DRC]

Th

The metal spike version is better than the original, which used to snap off when pushing it into firm ground.

I like the Critter a lot, but there are couple things you should know.

There is a small bolt that tightens the decoy cable into the spinning base. It's tiny, black and can fall out. I recommend getting one or two replacements from the hardware store so you have backups in case it happens.

The thread for the spike also can accommodate a hook bolt. This allows you to hang the decoy upside down from a tree branch or fence line. I like using a fence wire because it the movement reverberates down the line and simulates an animal caught in the wire.

When you spike the Critter, drive it straight down and deep; the motion over time can cause it to wiggle loose if not secure.

Make sure the area around the decoy is clear; the swinging fur attachment will quickly latch onto any weeds / cactus / twigs in its radius.

Resist the temptation to spray any scent directly on it; I've found some placing on the ground near it help cover the scent that the fur absorbs. I keep the fur cover and cable in a plastic bag between hunts to minimize scent absorption, and spray some deodorizer on it before use.

I recommend removing the cable when traveling between stands; if that screw comes loose and the cable falls out, you'll have a helluva time finding it. Consider keeping a thick rubber band or zip tie on the decoy to secure it.

It's a good decoy - reliable, quiet and and the batteries last a long time.

This is very helpful information that you have posted. Thank you!!!

I removed the tiny screw from the spinning base to check the screw length and found it very short so I am adding Loctite to the tip before reassembling it.
In my critter the tiny screw only holds the spinning base onto the rod that extends from the center of the critter, the cable is held onto the spinning base by magnetism.

I picked up securing the cable/spike with rubber band around the body off of YouTube but am wondering if you disconnect your battery housing from the wiring during storage/transportation?? Have you ever accidentally activated it ??

You mentioned scent. What should I use?? What works best??

Again thank you!!

 

[lonepunman]

I don't disconnect the battery, but it's a risk as the power button can be inadvertently turned on.

You should post the scent question in the "Varmint Hunting" forum; I'm certain there will be MANY opinions.

 

[DRC]

I don't disconnect the battery, but it's a risk as the power button can be inadvertently turned on.

You should post the scent question in the "Varmint Hunting" forum; I'm certain there will be MANY opinions.

Ok posting there now

Also I have slipped the Allen wrench needed to tighten the screw under the rubber band also

I had no idea about the hook screw in place of the stake. That's really cool. I'll use it that was as well