BOB CRAVEN
New Member
Looking for advice on zeroing my Zeus 336x50 in daylight conditions
Boresighting/zeroing my thermal
- Thread starter BOB CRAVEN
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- bore sighting zeroing
wigwamitus
LSB Active Member
My main issue with zeroing during the day is the light at the rear lens ... makes it hard to see thru the thermal.
If I think I want to zero in the day, I usually think again and decide to wait until dark.
Very occasionally, I decide to go ahead. Then I throw a garment over my head and the rear of the scope so I can see thru the thermal and then zero with handwarmer at 50 yds just like I do at night.
I've tried patches of aluminum foil and they work sometimes, but not always. Handwarmers always work. Well, so far anyway.
If I think I want to zero in the day, I usually think again and decide to wait until dark.
Very occasionally, I decide to go ahead. Then I throw a garment over my head and the rear of the scope so I can see thru the thermal and then zero with handwarmer at 50 yds just like I do at night.
I've tried patches of aluminum foil and they work sometimes, but not always. Handwarmers always work. Well, so far anyway.
I zero my Zeus during daylight hours all the time without a problem using handwarmers to 200 yds. Done it out at a public rage using aluminum foil with no problem there either. Only issue is when I zoom and the POI seems to change. In my hunting, if the native 3x isnt enough, I need to get closer.
As long as you don't take off the eye cup for shooting, you should have no problem seeing through the scope during the day. I often day hunted with my Zeus. If the sun is too bright an you do have issues, just drape a dark towel over you and your scope. Problem solved.
As noted, foil or handwarmers will often work fine. I have also used duct tape, but you can use metalized tape as well.
A buddy showed me on his paper targets where the inked areas heated up more than the regular paper did and he didn't need anything special to get zeroed. I don't know that I would count on this happening, but it an happen, LOL.
As noted, foil or handwarmers will often work fine. I have also used duct tape, but you can use metalized tape as well.
A buddy showed me on his paper targets where the inked areas heated up more than the regular paper did and he didn't need anything special to get zeroed. I don't know that I would count on this happening, but it an happen, LOL.
BOB CRAVEN
New Member
BOB CRAVEN
New Member
Thanks to all, I found no instructions in the manual.
bar-d
Head Wrangler, Chief Manure Manager: Bar-D Cattle
Zeroed my PTS233 on a bright sunny day using a small handwarmer. Even though it was very warm that day, the small handwarmer was perfectly visible.
Fla_dogman
LSB Member
I've found that steel does well for thermal. You might have to change between white hot or black hot to see it better depending on the temp. I shoot out to 200yds checking the zero from time to time without any problem.
The bright aluminum backed "muffler tape" works best for me during the hours of bright sun shineing on the target stand.
It is 2 inches wide and I cut pieces that are 2 inches long. I have found that if I put two or three pieces,one directly on top of the other,it will produce an even better heat signature.
My thermal is set to black hot and white crosshair. I also drape a piece of black cloth over my head and thermal since I do not use the eye cup. --- pruhdlr
It is 2 inches wide and I cut pieces that are 2 inches long. I have found that if I put two or three pieces,one directly on top of the other,it will produce an even better heat signature.
My thermal is set to black hot and white crosshair. I also drape a piece of black cloth over my head and thermal since I do not use the eye cup. --- pruhdlr
Eye cup works great. When possible I sight in the shade. I’ve even used my car as a sun barrier.
BOB CRAVEN
New Member
BOB CRAVEN
New Member
Thanks, I got the first rifle done on a cool day by reheating some tape. Just bought some hand warmers for my next two. I guess in the hot summer a cold object will get the job done. The scope has profiles for three I think.
BOB CRAVEN
New Member
Thanks I used the hand warmer method and it worked well. I was impressed with the ease of boresighting my Zeus mounted on the 5.56 then the 6.5
jglass
LSB Member
I bore sight all the time. Cheap way is have a black paper target in direct sunlight. I see it fine through the thermal. If I don't have sunlight on the target I take a thermos bottle full of warm water and some sandwich bags. Fill with water and staple to the target.
Of course when the bag of warm water is hit it is gone. But the scope is zeroed in then. Hand
warmer also work great.
Below is my fixture I made for bore siting an AR-15. Notice the leveling jacks on the fixture for adjusting height.
Of course when the bag of warm water is hit it is gone. But the scope is zeroed in then. Hand
warmer also work great.
Below is my fixture I made for bore siting an AR-15. Notice the leveling jacks on the fixture for adjusting height.
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EZToForget
New Member
I've seen a number of zeroing videos like yours. When I watch yours and others I cannot see the hits at all. There was one video I watched at one point that insinuated you can see the hits. I'm curious what I'm going to be able or unable to see with my trail when I zero in a few days. Can you see your hits through the thermal while you are sighting in or not? It's no big deal either way as I can use my spotting scope and trial and error. I was just curious? Thanks.
jglass
LSB Member
To see hits through the thermal the hit needs to do a temperature change on the target. Hits in the sunlight on a black paper target
will be seen as a cold spot through the thermal. A 223 hole will be hard to see. A .30 cal hole somewhat. Best to use a spotting scope
to be sure.
will be seen as a cold spot through the thermal. A 223 hole will be hard to see. A .30 cal hole somewhat. Best to use a spotting scope
to be sure.
bar-d
Head Wrangler, Chief Manure Manager: Bar-D Cattle
About all I could see as far as hits was when the first round hit the hand warmer, some of the chemicals tumbled out showing up as a streak. I didn't take a spotting scope that day and just walked to the target after each adjustment to confirm POI. I still have not had a chance to take mine out hunting but a lot of videos that I see will show a fleeting impact spot on hogs or coyotes which would be a bloodspot. Of course, when the bullet makes a big hole on the animal the escaping blood shows up until it cools to the temperature of the ground or whatever else it settles on.
EZToForget
New Member
Good info to know. Thanks. I’m pretty excited to get my new thefmal into action.
jglass
LSB Member
You should be, thermo was a real game changer for me, got mine in 2017